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An eco-friendly trip by EV: Driving through the sea and green peninsula loved by artists!

EVで行くエコな旅〜アーティストが愛した海と緑の半島を走る!

The Manazuru Peninsula is a small peninsula that juts out into the southwestern part of Kanagawa Prefecture. Situated between the bustling cities of Odawara and Yugawara, the town has chosen to develop its community according to its own unique "standards of beauty," preserving abundant nature and a peaceful lifestyle.
I visited the peninsula's landscape, beloved by painters, in an environmentally friendly electric vehicle.

《Here is the route for this casual trip》


The starting point is the intersection in front of JR Manazuru Station. Turn onto Prefectural Road 739 from National Route 135 towards the sea, and from there it's basically a single road that circles the peninsula, so you don't have to worry about getting lost.

As we walked down the slope, the view opened up and we could see Manazuru Port. There's also a yacht harbor next to the fish market, so you can get a little taste of a resort atmosphere.

On the second floor of the fish market is Sakanaza, a Japanese restaurant where you can enjoy fresh seafood that has just been landed. On a sunny day, the terrace seating with an ocean view looks very pleasant.

Since they open at 10 AM, I had a slightly late breakfast there.
There are so many set menus to choose from, it's hard to decide, but on this day I went with the "Three Kinds of Local Fish Rice Bowl" (1,780 yen + tax). I was very satisfied!

Pisces
[Opening Hours] 10:00 AM - 3:00 PM
[Regular holidays] Irregular holidays
[Address] 1947-2 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-68-6511
*You can view the official website here .

The town's guardian shrine, Kifune Shrine , is located very close to the harbor, so don't forget to pay your respects.
Its history is ancient, said to have been founded in the first year of the Kanpyō era (889), and it enshrines Ōkuninushi-no-kami, Kotoshironushi-no-kami, and Sukunahikona-no-kami.

Kifune Shrine is famous for its magnificent and spectacular festival, the "Kifune Festival," held every year on July 27th and 28th. A unique feature of the festival is that a portable shrine is carried across the sea from the shrine on the mountaintop before appearing in the town. It has been designated a Nationally Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.

Kifune Shrine
[Address] 1117 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-68-0066
*You can view the official website here .

After driving along the coastline for a while, you'll see Kotogahama Beach . As it's known as the birthplace of diving in Japan, the water is incredibly clear!
Because there are parking lots and walking paths, you can see many families with packed lunches on weekends.

After climbing a somewhat steep slope, the path continues into the forest .
The history of Ohayashi dates back to the Edo period, when a large amount of timber was needed after the Great Fire of Meireki. Pine seedlings allocated to the Odawara Domain by order of the shogunate were planted there. After the Meiji Restoration, it became an imperial forest, and access for the general public was restricted. After the war, it became a national forest, and in 1952 it was sold off to Manazuru Town.
Currently, it is a primeval forest home to hundreds of species of plants and wild birds, including Japanese black pines and camphor trees that exceed 30 meters in height, and is carefully protected as a "fish-attracting conservation forest."

After passing through the forest , you will arrive at Cape Manazuru , located at the tip of the Manazuru Peninsula. The scenic Mitsuishi area is just a short distance away. Cape Manazuru also has a shop, a cafe, and a free rest area, so it's a great place to take a break before heading out.

Cape Manazuru
[Opening Hours] 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM (Cafe opens at 10:00 AM)
[Address] 1175-1 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-68-1112
*You can view the official website here .
*Due to a change in management, Cape Manazuru's operations will change from April 1, 2020. Please check the website for details.

I found an EV fast charger in a corner of the roundabout in front of the facility! And it's free!
The rental service is available from 9 am to 3 pm. You can borrow the key at the Cape Manazuru shop reception and use it. However, since I can easily make the round trip from Yokohama without needing to charge my car, I parked in a regular parking lot that day.

A must-visit is the Endo Shell Museum , located on the second floor of Cape Manazuru. The museum boasts a collection of 4,500 species and 50,000 specimens, amassed over a lifetime by Haruo Endo, a shell researcher from Manazuru Town. It's a must-see. Furthermore, as a "museum of the sea," it hosts various events showcasing the natural beauty of the Manazuru Peninsula.

The exhibition room displays not only shells found in the sea off Manazuru and those that inhabit Sagami Bay, but also rare shells that cannot be found in Japan.

The museum sells a "Sparkling Shell Craft Kit." It contains abalone shell chips; simply polish them with the included sandpaper and attach a strap to create a sparkling keychain. This one-of-a-kind original accessory is sure to be a wonderful memento of your trip.

Manazuru Town Endo Shellfish Museum
[Opening Hours] 9:30 AM - 4:30 PM (Last entry at 4:00 PM)
[Closed on] Thursdays
[Admission Fee] Adults: 300 yen, Elementary school students to high school students: 150 yen *Free for residents of Manazuru and Yugawara townspeople
[Address] 1175 Manazuru, Manazuru-machi
[TEL] 0465-68-2111
*You can view the official website here .

Just outside the museum, you'll find a sculpture made from Komatsu stone, a specialty of Manazuru. Created by sculptor Atsuya Tominaga for the "Manazuru Town Stone Sculpture Festival" held in September 2019, its title is simply "Heart-Shaped Stone (Love Stone)." It feels like something wonderful might happen if you gently touch it.

Photo courtesy of Manazuru Town Tourism Association

Right next door, this wonderful new spot has also opened!
Since it's a two-seater, couples and parents and children can enjoy it together.

From the observation deck at the tip of the cape, you can see Mitsuishi , a famous spot for watching the first sunrise of the year. Looking around, you can see Hatsushima Island, Izu Oshima Island, and the Izu Peninsula in their entirety.
To the left of the observation deck, there's a staircase leading down to the coast. There are nearly 300 steps, so it looks like it will be tough to climb back up once you're there... but since we're here, let's go down anyway.

Seeing it up close really makes a difference in terms of its impact!
The coastline in this area was formed by lava that erupted 150,000 years ago, and it is said to be home to a diverse range of creatures, including shellfish, shrimp, crabs, and fish. At low tide, a rocky reef extending about 200 meters out into the sea appears, and it is said that you can walk across to Mitsuishi , but it is very slippery, so please be very careful where you step.

After climbing 300 steps, we resumed our drive!
The road through the forest is mostly one-way, so you can enjoy different scenery on your way there and back. The quietness without engine noise is one of the best things about EVs. Take your time and enjoy the rustling of the trees and the sound of the waves in the distance.
There are well-maintained walking trails within the forest , so you'll see a few hikers around. However, be careful when driving, as some large trees overhang the road.

Once you exit the one-way section, you will see the Kazumasa Nakagawa Museum of Art .
Born in Tokyo in 1893, Nakagawa established a studio in Manazuru Town in 1949 after the end of the war, and based his creative activities there.

Mr. Nakagawa, who loved Manazuru, enjoyed painting subjects such as roses and sunflowers, as well as Fukuura, a fishing village at the base of the western side of the peninsula. He also left behind works using mineral pigments, calligraphy, and ceramics, and the more you visit the museum, the more you will be captivated by his wide range of talents.

Near the museum, Nakagawa's studio has been recreated. The space, which includes the paints, canvases, and furniture he actually used, feels as if the artist is still creating art there.

Manazuru Town Nakagawa Kazumasa Museum of Art
[Opening Hours] 9:30 AM - 4:30 PM (Last entry at 4:00 PM)
[Closed days] Wednesdays (open if it's a public holiday), December 28th to January 3rd
[Admission Fee] Adults: 600 yen, High school students and younger: 350 yen
[Address] 1178-1 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-68-1128
*You can view the official website here .

Mr. Nakagawa is not the only painter who loved Manazuru and moved there. Mr. Takashi Hotta, who worked as a painter in Cagnes-sur-Georges in southern France for 40 years, is another such person. When he returned to Japan, he was looking for a landscape similar to that of southern France when he came across Manazuru. In 2014, he opened the Takashi Hotta Western Painting Museum to exhibit his own works.

The building, now open to the public as a Western-style film gallery, was originally built by a businessman and later used as a doctor's villa. From the large windows in the living room, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Hakone mountain range, the Izu Peninsula, and Sagami Bay – it's absolutely breathtaking!

Mr. Hotta passed away a few years ago, so his wife now runs the shop almost entirely on her own. Surrounded by his brightly colored artwork and listening to her reminisce about her days in the South of France, you almost forget that you're in Japan.

Hotta Takashi Western Art Museum
[Opening Hours] 11:00 - 16:30
[Opening days] Saturday, Sunday, and Monday
[Admission Fee] Free
[Address] 1414 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-68-5032

Upon returning to Manazuru Port, I found a charming restaurant called Honohono . With its white walls and large windows overlooking the sea, it has the stylish appearance of a place you might find in a European resort.

The restaurant has a cozy atmosphere with plenty of natural light. Surrounded by Scandinavian-style decor, including comfortable chairs, it seems like a great place to relax and enjoy a meal.
Incidentally, the shop's name is said to be derived from Hawaiian, with "hono" meaning "cove" and "honohono" meaning "a stroll."

For lunch, they offer a set menu where you can choose your main dish from fish, meat, two types of pasta, or curry. I opted for the "Fish Lunch (1,580 yen + tax)." Since I was there, I also added a non-alcoholic wine.
The main course that day was confit of yellowtail, served with a fresh tomato aglio e olio sauce and fried local rapeseed blossoms. It looked a little plain, but the taste was so amazing that it made me think, "What is this?!" Every single dish, from the appetizers to the salad dressing, was carefully prepared, and each plate was filled with happiness.
When I heard that the fish were delivered directly from fishermen who landed their catch at Manazuru Port right in front of the restaurant, and the vegetables were delivered directly from Takahashi Farm on the peninsula, I was convinced that it couldn't possibly be anything but delicious.

This is the "Saba Kuro Shichimi Pasta Aglio Olio (1,280 yen + tax)". Saba Kuro Shichimi is apparently one of the "new dried fish" developed by adapting Manazuru's traditional dried fish techniques, and it's another dish I've never tasted before. It's normally on the dinner menu, but they made it specially for me this time after I made a reservation.
A variety of original and creative dishes, packed with the treasures of Manazuru... I thoroughly enjoyed them!

One extra picture.
The shop has aquariums with tropical fish swimming in them, and I initially thought they were just for decoration, but it turns out these tropical fish were actually "caught" at Manazuru Port. They seem to have been carried by ocean currents all the way to Sagami Bay, but were unable to return to the southern seas and were rescued by fishermen.

honohono
[Opening Hours] Lunch 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM (Last Order) / Dinner 5:30 PM - 8:30 PM (Last Order)
[Closed] Tuesdays and Wednesdays
[Address] 1027 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-20-8556
*You can view the official website here .

I heard that the dried fish shop that developed the "New Dried Fish" I had at honohono was nearby, so I went to visit. It's Uoden, founded in 1877.
At the shop, they were busily preparing fish delivered from Manazuru Port, in the midst of making dried seafood. As I was browsing for dried seafood to take home as a souvenir, a sign in front of the shop caught my eye that read "Squid Bomb." When I asked the shopkeeper about it, he replied, "We'll fry it right away, so please wait about 5 minutes." Yes, of course I'll wait!

This is the "Squid Bomb".
Simply put, it's a croquette made with potatoes, squid, and caramelized onions, filled with cheese, and coated in squid ink breadcrumbs before being deep-fried. It certainly has an impactful appearance, but I discovered a whole new level of deliciousness! It's the perfect size for a snack, but it would also go perfectly with wine, so I bought several as souvenirs.

Fish Tales
[Address] 671 Manazuru, Manazuru-machi
[TEL] 0465-68-0467
*You can view the official website here .

One place you shouldn't miss in Manazuru is Arai Castle Ruins Park . It's a park developed on the site of the castle of Arai Sanetsugu, which stood in the 11th century. Because it's located on the side of a mountain, even just walking around the park provides a good workout.

The park, usually quiet, becomes bustling with activity in late March during cherry blossom season. The weeping cherry trees throughout the park bloom all at once, creating a truly magnificent sight.

Arai Castle Ruins Park
[Address] 1789 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho

There's another restaurant on the Manazuru Peninsula that I highly recommend visiting. It's called Minato Shokudo, located at the back of Fukuura Fishing Port on the western side of the peninsula.

What sets this place apart is not only the freshness and deliciousness of its fish, but also the generous portions. From the "Sashimi Set Meal," which allows you to enjoy 4 to 6 different kinds of fish, to simmered fish, grilled fish, fried fish, and more, everything is incredibly impressive. With over 20 items on the menu, if you're unsure what to choose, we recommend the "Minato Set Meal (2,100 yen + tax)," which lets you try a variety of dishes.

Minato Shokudo (Minato Diner)
[Opening Hours] 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM (Last Order 2:30 PM)
[Closed] Wednesdays
[Address] 109-2 Fukuura, Yugawara-cho
[TEL] 0465-20-7005
*You can view the official website here .

Once you're back near the station, don't forget to buy some souvenirs at Takayanai Confectionery.
The target is "Aji Sable"!
You can buy them at Cape Manazuru and other places, but you can buy them individually at the manufacturer's store, so you can get some as souvenirs and some as snacks. (130 yen per piece, tax included)

It's not called "Aji Sable" (horse mackerel sable) simply because it's shaped like a horse mackerel. In fact, the dough is kneaded with powdered sun-dried horse mackerel!
Of course, even though it contains horse mackerel powder, there's absolutely no fishy smell, so you can rest assured. The unique mismatch between the dried fish-designed packaging and the crispy, delicious shortbread cookies is sure to bring a smile to anyone you give it to.

《Takayanai》
[Business Hours] 9:30 AM - 7:00 PM
[Regular closing day] Tuesday (or the following day if Tuesday is a public holiday)
[Address] 1812 Manazuru, Manazuru-cho
[TEL] 0465-68-0304

Filming assistance provided by: Nissan Motor Co., Ltd.
Vehicle used: Nissan Leaf e+

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