An interview with Yoshimura Minoru, owner of Yoshimura-ya, the head of the Iekei ramen chain, whose Yokohama flavor is loved around the world.

A soy sauce-based soup made with pork and chicken bones. Thick noodles that cling well to the soup. Topped with spinach, char siu pork, and seaweed. Iekei ramen has now established itself as a genre of ramen. Its origin and pinnacle is "Yoshimura-ya," the main branch of Iekei ramen, which opened in Shinsugita in 1974. Currently, it is a thriving restaurant in Nishi Ward, Yokohama City, with lines forming day and night. This time, we interviewed Mr. Minoru Yoshimura, the chairman and creator of Iekei ramen. He candidly shared his thoughts on how he started his ramen shop and his own views on ramen.

──Could you tell us what inspired you to open a ramen shop?

My family was poor, so I wanted to become rich. I only graduated from junior high school, so I basically had an inferiority complex. During my school days...or maybe you should say my student days, I lost back then, so I wanted to win in society. That's all. That's why I didn't want to lose to people who went to university or who had excellent jobs. I thought it would be enough to win in life, and that it would be enough if I won when I die. That's the mindset with which I run my ramen shop.

── Do you teach how to make Iekei ramen?

The term "Iekei" (family lineage) means "family." I teach because it's about "family." Six ramen shop owners came from Yamaguchi Prefecture on Sunday, and I taught them without charging them. I don't teach that much, so that kind of thing rarely happens. Iekei is about "family." So I hope that everyone I teach becomes rich.

—Could you tell us how you came to open your shop in the heart of Yokohama?

I wanted to become famous. When I lived in Shinsugita, my rent was 180,000 yen, but when I moved to Yokohama, it jumped to 2 million yen. I didn't know if I could make it there, but now, more than forty years later, I've come so far that I'm building a 230 million yen building here. Even so, the land isn't that big, only about 25 tsubo (approximately 82 square meters). Well, that's partly due to my hard work, but I think it's also because I met a lot of different people.

--Could you tell us about your typical day when you're making ramen?

I usually wake up around midnight, start work at 2 AM, and go to bed at 5 PM. I eat dinner at 3 PM and breakfast around 7 AM. I only eat about two meals a day. I don't exercise, and I know I'll get fat if I eat too much. But I'm 76, so I think I'm healthier than the average person. I used to only eat ramen about three times a month, but now I can't even eat that much. I eat mostly vegetables and lighter foods. And on Sundays I go out to have fun. After all, you can't know what's going on unless you visit different shops. I usually visit two or three ramen shops and places like that. But 99% of the shops that used to be delicious have gone bad. That's because the fathers aren't there anymore, and the proprietresses aren't there anymore. Well, I've been there all this time, so I think the taste will only get better and won't get worse. But I don't know what will happen when my son takes over. For now, both my son and daughter are doing a good job. They might even be able to compete on a global scale.

──What do you find appealing about Yokohama, Mr. Yoshimura?

Our customers have always been open to new things. That's what's so great about customers in Yokohama. It's the same with politics, but surprisingly, Kanagawa, Yokohama, is always ahead. I think that's the spirit of the people of Yokohama and Kanagawa prefecture. Taking on challenges is nothing to them. They're not easily swayed by the media either. They're the type who think, "If it makes me money and it suits me, that's good enough." That's what makes doing business in Yokohama such a good thing.

--Ramen is a popular food all over the world these days. Do you have a message for ramen fans?

You'll have to wait two to three hours, so if you don't like waiting, you're better off going to a different ramen shop. That's the Japanese taste, after all (laughs). This (Yoshimura-ya's ramen) isn't the Japanese taste. My ramen is made fresh every day using three large stockpots of soup (pointing to the pots), so it's fresh and has a variety of ingredients added to it. It doesn't taste like additives. But it seems this is something that can be enjoyed all over the world.

But there's a limit to how much we can make in a day. If we make 1000 servings, we won't have enough soup. So I'm sorry to make you wait a little, but there aren't many places that make soup in a pot that big and keep three of them on hand at all times. Most places just make a little bit at a time, heat it up, and that's it. That's not a ramen shop, that's a vending machine.

Our ramen isn't made in a factory; 99% of it is handmade. We make our own vinegar and ginger. Apparently, there aren't many ramen shops in Japan that have a lot of private label products. It seems like mine is the only one. I guess that's why we have so many foreign customers. Foreigners must really know what they're doing. It's giving me a headache, because I can't fool them anymore. They're getting more and more used to ramen. It's not easy to fool them.

Concluding with a "Thank you for the perfect interview," Chairman Yoshimura gave the biggest smile of the day. Regarding the future of Yoshimura-ya, he said, "It's just the beginning. It's only been about 47 years. If I keep going for another three or four years... I'll be 80. It makes me think. But I still feel like I have a long way to go." The taste of Yoshimura-ya, which originated in Shinsugita, now captivates people all over the world. It will undoubtedly continue to be a representative taste of Yokohama and Kanagawa, creating a bowl that will remain in the memories of many people.

As you can see, Kanagawa Prefecture boasts a variety of fascinating food cultures that can only be experienced here. Why not combine your visit with cultural and artistic appreciation and events with an opportunity to enjoy Kanagawa's unique cuisine, seasonal ingredients, and alcoholic beverages while interacting with local people?